It’s an often misunderstood and mis-performed step of a healthy skincare routine – exfoliation. Simply put, it’s removing dead skin cells so the fresh stuff can rise to the top. But there are multiple ways to do it and get it right for your unique skin.
As we usually do, let’s start with how your skin works:
Our skin constantly regenerates itself from the bottom up, like grass. Skin cells start out deep in the dermis and make a journey upward to the surface – where our skin releases them. Our skin naturally sheds dead cells throughout the day, every day. As old cells shed, our skin regenerates healthy new cells to replace them.
Without consistent exfoliation as adults, we start to see a buildup of dead and damaged cells. That buildup can trap debris in pores (leading to blackheads), create rough or bumpy texture, impede products from absorbing properly, and contribute to a dull, tired-looking complexion.
By removing dead skin cells, exfoliation does a few party tricks: it smooths the surface of the skin, helps fade dark spots, evens skin tone, encourages buildup to exit the skin, and stimulates new healthy cell growth. By clearing away the old and promoting new, smart exfoliation can even help minimize visible signs of aging like fine lines and wrinkles.
But don’t overdo it. Gentle exfoliation at least once weekly is essential, but it’s definitely not a more-is-better step.
The next question is what to reach for. There are two types of exfoliation: mechanical and chemical.
Mechanical exfoliation is probably the kind you’re most familiar with, from drugstore “scrubs” (we don’t love that word…) to the finer polishes we carry.
Mechanical exfoliation uses a physical tool (brush, sponge, beads, etc.) to loosen dead surface skin cells through friction. Think of it like sanding or buffing the skin. And with that analogy in mind, you can understand why pressing harder or using a grittier scrub won’t give you the smoothest finish — think dusting shelves rather than scrubbing pots and pans. Gentle is key!
Next up, chemical exfoliation. Don’t be misled by the word “chemical” here. We’re talking about natural fruit enzymes and hydroxy acids (AHA/BHA) that help your skin release dead cells by dissolving what holds them together.
Within chemical exfoliants, enzymes work like Pac-Man, digesting dead skin cells and breaking down the “glue” binding them, as well as loosening gunk in pores. Enzyme exfoliants are usually applied like a mask and rinsed after 5–15 minutes. They’re gentle and only digest dead skin, so you don’t risk over-exfoliating.
Hydroxy acids (AHA & BHA) penetrate more deeply and can create meaningful improvements in uneven tone, signs of aging, and breakout-prone skin. They dissolve that same “glue,” while also stimulating deeper processes like collagen and elastin production. These need to be used mindfully to avoid irritation or damage.
Chemical exfoliation ranges from super gentle at-home products to stronger in-office treatments. The name is often scarier than the process itself — especially when a pro recommends the right option for you.
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So in summary...
• Exfoliation removes dull, dead skin and reveals fresh new cells.
• It’s an important step for everyone at least weekly (your Skin Therapist can tell you the ideal frequency).
• Always be cautious — too much exfoliation can leave skin raw and oversensitized.
• The best combination of mechanical and/or chemical exfoliation depends on your skin type, concerns, and goals. A professional can guide you to the right ingredients and frequency.
