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Skin Condition 101

Why Inflammation Might Be What Is Actually Messing With Your Skin

Words by Michael Pollak

Inflammation can be the root cause of many skincare concerns we hear. Let's unpack what inflammation means.
How to deal with inflamed skin
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Inflammation can be the root cause of many skincare concerns we hear. Let's unpack what inflammation means.

Sometimes it can be hard to pick just one skincare goal. Wouldn’t it be nice if there was one simple solution to address everything at once?! Well, amidst all of our opinions, we do agree that a skincare routine loaded in anti-inflammatory ingredients is one of the most effective ways to treat many skin concerns.

Anti-inflammatory ingredients? Does that mean that my skin’s inflamed?

We customize each facial based on what we're seeing in your skin that day – and almost 40% of our facials have focused on calming inflammation. Most of us associate “inflamed skin” with allergic reactions to something – maybe we see a rash or hives. However, inflammation can take many forms and has many triggers – when you live in a city like New York, you’re hard-pressed to meet a skin that has no inflammation at all.

So, what do you mean by inflamed?

Inflammation is our body’s built-in defense system to protect itself. It's there to assist in healing after an injury and then designed to subside once your body is back to normal. (Think: the angry redness around a zit, a mosquito bite, a swollen throat when you get strep.) But daily-life triggers can cause long-term inflammation that lingers and contributes to unwanted skin conditions like blotchy redness, early signs of aging, uneven hyperpigmentation, and stubborn breakouts.

Where could inflammation be coming from?

Inflammation can come from external or internal sources. “Simply walking through a city, for example, exposes our skin to pollutants and free radicals which trigger our skin’s inflammatory response,” our Skin Therapist, Jenna tells us. Pollution is everywhere, which means inflammation can linger unless you actively manage it.

External causes of long-term inflammation include skipping SPF, over-exfoliating, using skincare that disrupts your pH, harsh fragrances, too many essential oils, or irritating ingredients. Internal causes include chronic inflammatory conditions like rosacea, which must be diagnosed by a dermatologist.

Wow, that’s a long list of things that cause it.

So many! And we’re not even done. Stress is a huge one. Jenna tells us that “the hormone cortisol rises during stressful times, which in the short term is helpful, but when stress is constant, cortisol backfires and causes inflammation.” You can't always control stress, so she recommends giving your skin anti-inflammatory calm-down treatments a few times a week, such as using the Hydra-Restore Cream Cleanser by Grown Alchemist as a soothing mask. Meditation and more sleep help too.

Besides redness, what else does inflammation look like so I can keep an eye out?

Inflammation breaks down collagen and elastin faster. If you’re exposed to frequent inflammatory triggers (city life, flying, or boozy brunches!), fine lines and wrinkles show up earlier. “If you’re interested in anti-aging products and long-term results, inflammation can be a real hindrance,” our Skin Therapist, Suzanne warns.

Dehydration is another sign. “If the skin is inflamed it will usually show up as dehydration under the Wood’s Lamp — purple or light violet,” Bee explains. Acne-related inflammation may not fluoresce at all but appear as darkness under the lamp.

Inflammation is also directly connected to pigmentation. Anywhere you get redness — breakouts, sunburn, irritation — you may later see darkened pigmentation. “Pigmentation is one of the hardest conditions to treat because it lies in so many layers of the skin. Lasers may be needed for long-term success,” our Skin Therapist, Wanda says.

Aha! Is this why my breakout always leaves a dark spot behind? So frustrating!

Yes! Inflammation from adult breakouts almost always leaves dark spots behind. Picking causes more trauma (and more inflammation), meaning slower healing. Instead of a super drying spot treatment, reach for an anti-inflammatory one, like the White Tea Antioxidant by Naturopathica, to calm the breakout faster and prevent the dark spot.

Calm the inflammation, got it. But is there a way to prevent inflammation altogether?

You can’t avoid every trigger, but lifestyle choices make a huge difference — sleep, exercise, managing stress, and eating anti-inflammatory foods. Jenna also recommends minding your diet. Limit saturated fats, fried foods, sugar, and refined carbs — the same foods doctors recommend cutting for general health.

Focus on skincare rich in antioxidants, botanicals, omega fatty acids, and vitamins A, C, and E.

While we're at it, here are our recommendations from Jenna for adding anti-inflammatory products throughout your routine.

Top inflammation-fighting moisturizers include Calendula Cream from Naturopathica and Kantic Calming Cream from Alchimie Forever. And of course, a broad-spectrum SPF like the Skincare Prevention+ Daily Ultimate Protection Moisturizer SPF 50 from Image.

Bulk up your routine with protective nutrients from natural sources to prevent inflammation, and you’ll never have to choose which skincare goal to focus on — you’ll be multitasking for the win!