Exfoliation 101: The Science, Benefits, and Best Methods for Every Skin Type

Understanding The Process

Think of it like this: your skin has its own little timer when it’s ready to turn over, called a cell renewal factor (aka CRF). Everyone is different, but on average, new cells come to the surface between 28 to 40 days—the younger you are, the faster the process is. That’s how the saying “smooth as a baby’s bottom” came into play.

As we age, it takes longer for these cells to travel to the surface, allowing dead skin cells to accumulate over time, exacerbating skin conditions ranging from acne and hyperpigmentation to keratosis and eczema or psoriasis. Essentially, it's a traffic jam of old skin cells because they aren’t proliferating as quickly as they should.

“We need to slough off or exfoliate the dead skin because we don't want dirt, grime, and bacteria on the surface,” explains Heyday Skincare Educator Glenise Gomez. “[Dead skin cells] cause us to have impacted pores, acne, and congestion. In some cases, if we don't exfoliate properly, it will actually make us look older.”

The Different Types of Exfoliation

There are two main types of exfoliation: physical (mechanical) and chemical. Both can—and should—have a place in your routine if done properly.

Physical exfoliation uses a textured medium to slough off dead skin and reveal regenerated skin underneath. This includes scrubs, dry brushes, pumice, loofahs, or professional treatments like microdermabrasion, dermaplaning, or even shaving/waxing.

A key reminder: choose a medium that gives an *even* exfoliation. Products like St. Ives Apricot Scrub are avoided by professionals because the particles are not spherical and can cause microtears. “We prefer bead shapes or mediums that are round, rather than something sharp-edged that could cause irritation,” explains Gomez.

“If you over-exfoliate your skin, you can actually cause more damage—especially with physical exfoliation. You can cause micro-tears, bleeding, capillary damage, irritation, and an impaired skin barrier.”

Exfoliation is fundamental in a good skincare routine. It's a must, like sunscreen. It’s a simple addition that provides the most dramatic change within your skincare journey.

Chemical exfoliation relies on plant enzymes or AHAs (glycolic, lactic, mandelic, azelaic, salicylic, etc.) to break the bonds between dead skin cells so they can fall away. “Chemical exfoliants penetrate the skin, loosening the intercellular cement—the sticky glue that holds skin cells together,” explains Gomez.

Chemical exfoliation requires balance. Depending on your moisture levels and oil production, overuse can damage the acid mantle and lead to sensitivity.

So, Which One Is Better?

It depends on your skin type.

“Thicker, more resilient, or oilier skin types that aren't easily irritated benefit really well from physical exfoliation,” says Gomez. “Those with thinner, mature, drier skin types benefit more from chemical exfoliation. And some skin types can benefit from dual exfoliation.”

General guide: oily skin ~3x/week; dry skin ~2x/week; sensitive skin ~1x/week. But don’t overdo it.

Signs of over-exfoliation include burning, sensitivity, itchiness, breakouts, swelling (inflammation), or soreness. Gomez recommends cooling the skin and using hydrating products with humectants like aloe vera or honey. Emollient-rich moisturizers help seal the barrier and protect compromised skin. And always wear sunscreen, especially when exfoliating.

Meet The Winner’s Circle of Exfoliants

This Exfoliating Peel

Gomez loves this gentle, multi-acid peel for clients who pigment easily. The clinically-tested formula relies on lactic acid to revitalize dull skin and reveal radiance without irritation.

These Easy-to-Use Pads

A perfect hybrid of chemical and physical exfoliation, these peptide-packed pads feature glycolic acid and glycerin to brighten and hydrate in a few swipes.

This Enzyme-Powered Masque

This masque uses enzymes to exfoliate dead skin, vitamin C to brighten, and hyaluronic acid to hydrate. Leave on for 10–20 minutes to reveal a more balanced, even complexion.

This Multitasking, Overnight Treatment

Wake up glowing with this glycolic acid overnight treatment. Powered by AHA + PHA to stimulate cell turnover, it exfoliates gently without disrupting the skin barrier, resulting in a more radiant complexion.